Review - Il trionfo del tempo e del disinganno (Handel), 2016 Festival d'Aix-en-Provence, Webcast

Bellezza/Beauty - Sabine Devieilhe
Piacere/Pleasure - Franco Fagioli
Disinganno/Disillusion - Sara Mingardo
Tempo/Time - Michael Spyres

Le Concert d’Astrée
Emmanuelle Haïm (Conductor)
Krzysztof Warlikowski (Stage Director)


Handel's The Triumph of Time and Truth rewards one with a wide range of colour, virtuosic vocal displays and the sheer rhythmic energy. Arguably it is one of the composer's finest output and a reference for later works. The melody of the aria 'Cogli la rosa' is notably reused for the well known 'Lascia chio pianga' in the opera Rinaldo. I also have a soft spot for 'Tu del Ciel ministro eletto', the hauntingly beautiful aria that concludes the oratorio. Though I do not find the libretto always accessible because of its abstract outlook, which is supposedly a morality play, but in actual a philosophical debate of conscience. Back in February 2013, I attended a concert performance of the oratorio at Salle Pleyel, Paris, by René Jacobs conducting the Freiburg Baroque Orchestra. Musically it was a rewarding evening but I found it difficult to understand the intellectual debates.

The strength of Warlikowski staging is that it provides a visual context to realise the complex psychology and emotions, by presenting the libretto with a human touch through insightful dramaturgy. The stage, sets up as a cinema divides by a glass corridor in the middle, is not only a theatre on its own, but to incorporate the audience. The layout and light schemes have an intention to be seamlessly extended to every corner of the audience stand. We are to be participants than merely spectators. Also like many of Warlikowski productions, the female protagonist is a victim of male dominance and abuse, but also struggles with sexual desires and physical satisfaction. The portrayal of Beauty resembles heroines of tragic romanticism like Lulu, Alceste, Medea, The Dyer's wife and Judith. Their encounters and downfalls, especially when the world turns its back on her, provoke strong sympathy and lead to an emotional development.

In this staging, Beauty is not a goddess but a teenage girl suffers from illusions and her feelings. The experience of loss, dreaminess and stricken by grief gather the clouds that trouble her mind, and eventually lead to self destruction. The energetic overture with strong rhythmic drive accompanies a drunken youth clubbing scene under drug influence, as shown in the introductory film. The male dancer, who later reappears throughout, snogs with a guy and Beauty the same time until both collapse, being carried to the hospital and then he is supposedly dead. The projection screen is then retracted and a mirror appears reflecting the conductor. We know later that the film is an actual accident but beauty find its difficult to convince herself in believing the accident. It echoes on the words in the second aria by Pleasure that gloomy spirit and darkest sorrow grow if one cannot get rid out of the thoughts.


The first part of the oratorio continues the suggested plot in parallel to the text and reaches a spiritual questioning before interval. A household scene is first shown where Pleasure presents himself as a fun seeking, carefree and rebellious young man, though I cannot tell whether he is the brother or boyfriend of Beauty. She first leans on a tree while listening to him, then brushing teeth next to a washing basin. Time and Disillusion make the parental figures, and annoy Pleasure with their gloomy and sarcastic remarks in contrast to Pleasure, who celebrates earthly love and affections. The moment begins to twist and become surreal when Pleasure starts to dance with the dead dancer (now alive again), whereas Time and Disillusion work on a typewriter the other side of the room. A nurse also enters the room and the space seems no longer a definite one. Beauty also takes pills on a patient bed and we start seeing seductive girls flooding in from the glass corridor. Time suddenly kisses Beauty by force but Pleasure takes her away, who is now looking frail and choking a lot. She combs her hairs until a complete melt down, raging over Time continuous bashing of the 'truth'.

The stage lights go out but a lone table light is left on. Pleasure walks in the dark mysteriously alike a stalker, and the dancer collapses again and covers in blood, while trying to touch Beauty. Gradually the stage becomes a patient room on one side and the dining room in the other. The surreal state evolves from Beauty's hallucinations into a depressing cinema setting. It is probably a more realistic situation and objective outlook from the audience perspective. The collapsed dancer now in underwear only and even healthy enough to dance, while Pleasure smoking cocaine and sits in the cinema stall towards the back. Though sadness looming more on Beauty despite the dancer, her once affection, tries to seduce her. She gradually understands that the other three will not ever make her happy but only anxiety and doubts.

To conclude the first part, various women in different outfits and age reappear at the cinema stalls. Some showing themselves as drug addicts and not cheerful at all, a girl even cannot hold her tears either. They are probably variations of Beauty in similar mental states, and all wanting to know what they are after from substance abuse. The heated debate among the four escalates when Time and Disillusion pushing their belief on the illuminated man (the redeemer), and the everlasting truth. Towards the end a film shows a man believes himself is connected and speaking to ghost all the time. Even the female presenter is being convinced by his replies on what happens.

The message here I think is two folded. On the surface, the first half of the oratorio being shown as an abstract tale of illusions and surreal occurrence to search the meaning of all. On the other hand, in contact with ghost seems bizarre to believe logically, though like dreams and visions, spiritual visions are not always explainable. We could only glimpse and experience the strangeness in distance without necessary have an understanding. Warlikowski comes up with this unexpected explanation by borrowing the concept of Christ as a source of love and spiritual comfort. The male dancer becomes the metaphorical representation that provide Beauty the imaginative physical comfort and dwelling to heal her mind.


The second half turns away from the extraordinary dreamy states, but resolute to end all woes in action physically. It can be perceived as the alternate version of the drug scene aftermath that is shown back at the overture. The cinema stalls are now nearly empty except Time sits next to Beauty, who is still lamenting the dead dancer on the patient bed. Pleasure changes from his bohemian outlooks into a suit, and attempts to give counsel to Beauty. Time acts the same but fails to woo Beauty again. When the four sit together at the dining table, Beauty suddenly kisses Time and the shocked Pleasure drops the roses he brought. There seems a change of heart in Beauty but appears to be undecided as she throws away the roses after picking up. On the other side of the stage an old woman appear, and now a crowd of women gather in the glass corridor to change Beauty into a wedding dress. Though her sorrow and sadness increasingly apparent, when Time and Disillusion discuss turning to god for truth than the earthly pleasure. Pleasure behaves horribly on the table as Beauty further distanced herself from him and no longer listen.

Finally only Beauty stays with other women as spectators in the background. She commits suicide by cutting her wrist, which death is marking the way to redeem her sins and reaching for the imagined dwelling. However much we could agree on, I do not think Warlikowski is seeking moral dimension to determine whether suicide a kind of redemption, indirectly resembling to Christ's sacrifice on the cross. Though it is a more humanistic approach to see an unhappy and suffering soul that will only find peace by seeking away from condemnation, short live happiness or unwilling compromise with the perceived moral standards. It also triggers the sympathy and empathy for one who takes a difficult path to get out of the mental troubles and sorrows.


Sabine Devieilhe exceeds my expectation as a singer and an actress. Her characterisation as the vulnerable Beauty is highly convincing. She builds gradually from a troubled and trapped young female until the finale, when Pleasure stands up for her will and embraces the downfall in full. Her singing improves throughout the performance to become more flexible and natural, with the voice being warmed up. A bell like timbre and her tessitura sits comfortably within the vocal range. 'Tu del Ciel ministro eletto' is beautifully sung with an exquisite tone quality that marks a highly moving end. It is interesting that Handel assigns many virtuosic arias to the role of Pleasure, and Franco Fagioli is more than competent in nailing the part. His runnings are always impeccable alike a machine gun effect, which he can sustain a very long line, the energy and no need to snatch a breath. Some may not always enjoy his timbre, particularly in the higher vocal range, but I always feel that Handelian works complement his voice rather nicely. It also important to have a male singer to produce the masculine quality of the role than merely a technical display, which Fagioli is a bonus with the package. He also acts well as a rebel figure of the family and captures the emotional devastation rather vividly in the last part.

Sara Mingardo's singing is somehow disappointing that audibly some wears and tears in her voice even with the ideal timbre. Projection is sometimes underwhelming but one would credit her beautiful rendition in 'Crede l'uom ch'egli riposi', which the adapt tempo and phrasing are appropriate. Michael Spyres rightfully portrays Time as a controlling and stubborn fatherly figure to Beauty, but also have trouble in his affection for her as an older man. Sometimes he is probably too romantic by employing excessive vibrato that sounds too much for the performance style. Only gradually becomes more pleasant and less barking in his singing. Emmanuelle Haïm draws many dramatic playing from the period instrument orchestra Le Concert d’Astrée, and sensitive accompanying for the soloists. Tempos never go too extreme with smooth transitions. Morally the message of the play is not really worth to celebrate, but the dramaturgy and music quality of this production is a resounding triumph.


To see this production again, Lille Opera will stage it in January 2017 follows by Theatre of Caen in February 2017. 

Review - 2016 Hong Kong-Vienna Music festival, Symphony No. 8 (Mahler), Hong Kong City Hall Concert Hall, 28 August 2016


Sir Simon Rattle once put Beethoven's symphonies to a kind of Mount Everest to climb. In a similar metaphorical representation, Mahler's symphonies arguably could compare to the Alps for the sheer scale and sound world. I feel the depth in Mahler's music is boundless and beyond imagination, which has a gigantic iceberg lies under every symphonies. The eighth symphony is an especially challenging work to perform among the symphonic repertoire. Mahler persistently regarded the symphony as his most important work even after completing Das Lied von Erde. It asks not only for a large orchestral and choral force, but also the input of enormous energy from the ground-breaking tutti E-flat major chord till its profound conclusion, which resonates alike the ringing of universe beyond the earthly sound. Technically and mentally also demanding at any performance. It is an ambitious choice for any orchestra to perform such work, even for world-class orchestras.

The recent developed Hong Kong-Vienna Music festival had decided to meet the challenge and presented a tour de force with an international cast. Hong-Kong born Jimmy Chiang took up the baton to marshal the force. Vincent Schirrmacher, who was born in China and educated in England, sang the difficult tenor role. He was joined by soprano Anna Baxter, the conductor’s wife, together with sopranos Yuki Ip and Louise Kwong, mezzo-soprano Christina Baader and Samantha Chong, baritone Klemens Sander and bass-baritone Apollo Wong. The orchestra consisted of members from the Vienna Radio Symphony Orchestra, Vienna State Opera, Vienna Symphony Orchestra, Hong Kong Philharmonic orchestra, City Chamber Orchestra of Hong Kong, as well as local university music students from The Chinese University of Hong Kong, Hong Kong Baptist University, Hong Kong Academy for Performing Arts and Vienna University of Music and Performing Arts. The ongoing debate, of  whether the symphony as a symphonic piece or choral-orchestral work, does not conceal the undeniable fact that the choral part plays an important role. The world-renowned Arnold Schoenberg Choir and the Vienna Boys Choir formed the backbone of the massed choir, teamed up with the The Learners Chorus, Hong Kong Treble Choir and Vienna Boys Choir Academy Concert Choir.

Since the beginning of the first movement already marks its first climatic moment, there is hardly any time for the players to sink in the music but only to deliver the full impact. Though the orchestra did not quite manage to achieve what I expected and fell short from building up the thick texture. The textual richness was not ably deliver partly due to the relatively small sized orchestra. I would prefer a horizontal reading of the score since some passages should be more expressively played. Neither the quieter moments sounded still and calm enough. Violins were not tidy in the technically difficult passages and some intonation problems happened among the vocal soloists. The execution of switching the moods, between the majestic and explosive 'Veni, veni creator spirtus' and the expressive legato orchestral phrase led by the violins, were not effective. Singers too were not in their best form and some audible mistakes.

The timbre varied and one could hear three different voice colours among the combined choir, probably due to age differences and technical abilities. The blending was not homogeneous and high notes sometimes sounded breathy and unsupported. The beginning and ending consonances could be tidier. Otherwise they delivered a round tone for most of the time. Despite some noticeable mistakes, the performance was presentable enough and gradually improved as the performance proceeded. It managed the built up to the concluding climax successfully with a nice crescendo, and ended the first part in a round muscular tone.

The second half of the symphony mostly follows the final scene of Faust written by Goethe. After a slightly disappointing first half, the orchestra eventually warmed up and performed better. The woodwinds' solo passages at the beginning were beautifully played. Though there were some balance problems that the soloists had to battle with the orchestra in terms of volume. The orchestra could be overpowering and one could not always hear the singing. The baritone Klemens Sander sang 'Ewiger Wonnebrand' with a warm and round tone. Words were clearly articulated, and the lines were expressively and lyrically phrased. 'Wie Felsenabgrund' sang by the bass Apollo Wong was louder in projection by comparison but his diction was not as clear as Sander. Among the five female soloists, Louise Kwong sang particularly well with her diction crystal clear, and the sound of the notes at her high tessitura was so transparent that as if effortlessly sung. The tenor Vincent Schirrmacher sang his line emotionally, high notes were beautifully produced and carried the vocal weight. His diction was good and crafted each line with great care so that the mood change was effective.

I would regard this performance a success that it provided a platform for cultural and musical exchange between the two cities. Musically it was a great performance judging by local standard and to perform such towering piece was an tremendous achievement. This performance would undoubtedly one of the city cultural highlights of 2016. Yet one should not satisfy at this level of success, but to aim further for a higher standard that would be internationally acclaimed otherwise.


Photo credits: Facebook Page and Website of the Vienna Boys Choir Music Academy Foundation

Hiking in the Via Alpina, 22-29 August 2016

Fanfare - Big band festival in Cortina

Day 1 - Durnstein, Krems an der Donau, Langenlois

Kicking off the Eurotrip in Austria and Italy, we drove from Vienna for about an hour to a town called Durnstein, home of the Durnstein Castle ruins and in the heart of the UNESCO-rated Wachau Valley.  Although I've been to Austria before, I could only recall my time in Vienna, so everything else would be a new experience.

Durnstein itself is incredibly small, and the walk up to the castle ruins that overlook the town was steep but short - a good warmup for the hikes to come on the trip as we reached the Dolomites.  From the top, we were greeted with an expansive view of the snaking Danube river that coursed its way through the valley.

Lunch was served riverside and naturally was heavily focused on seafood - whole char directly from the river and stuffed with dill and other herbs was particularly delicious.  After lunch, a short boat ride to the town of Krems was next on the agenda.

Krems an der Donau is actually split into three towns, but with our free hour, we walked around the historic streets.  It was a bit of an odd experience - the old architecture mixed with the new commercial brands that are ubiquitous throughout Europe, but I suppose that is characteristic of most towns like that these days.  While quaint, it was not particularly memorable, especially more than 3 weeks later, but the low-key first day was a good way to start the trip.

View from the top of Durnstein Castle looking down on the town


Durnstein Castle ruins, with the Danube in the background

Perfect setting for a riverside lunch

Durnstein Abbey 


Day 2 - Langenlois

Another low-key day on the Eurotrip - we were staying at a spectacularly modern hotel designed by Steven Holl located just above the town of Langenlois in the heart of Austrian wine country, so naturally the morning consisted of a peaceful vineyard walk.  I understand the main grape being produced is the Gruner Veltleiner but not really being a drinker it's sadly a bit hard for me to appreciate.

Someone though did come up with a brilliant idea for placing hammocks in between the vines - that is indeed quite the life.  A bit hard to get out of because they are so comfortable.

After a typically hearty Austrian meal in the town consisting of beef stew and cream soup, it was free time till the winery tour in the afternoon.  I snuck away to play 18 holes at Lengenfeld Golf Club, and surprisingly, with my rental clubs, actually played quite well, to the tune of a 73.  What a life.

The winery tour was billed as being rather "mystical", and did it deliver on that front.  I don't remember a ton, except there was an epic 5 minute laser show, animatronic robots that sang creepy tunes in wooden chests, and a rain shower in the middle of the underground winery.  Not sure what all that had to do with wine, but certainly quite memorable.


Day 3 - Gmunden, Hallstatt, Wolfgangsee, Mundsee, St Gilgen

Wow.  This is the Austria I came to see.  The famed "Sound of Music" lakes were the theme of today, starting with Traunsee, near the town of Gmunden.  Honestly, just the drives themselves today were spectacular, and if only we had more time to stop by the side of the road to take pictures.  Just stunning scenery akin to that of Switzerland.  No wonder Julie Andrews went spinning around and around.

Without a doubt however, the highlight of today is the town of Hallstatt.  This was the one place I'd heard of on the itinerary before the trip started, so I was eager with anticipation, and it certainly didn't disappoint.  Looking towards the main part of town as it abuts Hallstattsee is honestly just breathtaking - it's absolutely picture postcard perfect.  The colors are magnificent, the mountains stunning, and the water still and blue as glass.  The only thing ruining it are the swan-shaped paddle boats, although it is a bit meta for actual swans to be swimming alongside them.  But seriously, just wow.

Before heading to our lakeside hotel (another lake - Fuschlsee) - we went on a quick short walk along Wolfgangsee to the town of St Gilgen.  What I would pay for a house along the lake.  Oh wait, but I don't want to live in Austria.

Traunsee, with the castle in Gmunden

Picture perfect town of Hallstatt

Looking at Hallstatt from above

On the way to St Gilgen - Wolfgangsee

Day 4 - Salzburg and its environs

Today was the first major hike of the Eurotrip - a short drive from Schloss Fuschl, our hotel, to an area near Salzburg where we could look down into the city.  Again, not a particularly strenuous walk that took a few hours, but the scenery was gorgeous, and walking among the trees I was reminded of scenes from Lord of the Rings as well as the planet of Endor.  What a nerd.  At least I didn't hum the music as I walked.  Or maybe I did.

Towards the end of the hike, we came to a meadow that offered a view of the Austrian Alps, and in the distance, the Dolomites - our next eagerly awaited destination.  By this time, most of us had tired of the Austrian cuisine and would have killed for a simple bowl of pasta.

Dinner was in Salzburg itself, at a Michelin-starred restaurant called Esszimmer - the food was definitely well-executed, although there were a few grumbles about the appearance - in fact, dominance - of fish on the menu.  Oh, for that bowl of pasta.....

Looking down at the town of Salzburg

The hills are alive....

For some reason, this shot really reminds me of Before Sunrise...although I think that was in Vienna, so go figure...

Day 5 - Hallein salt mines, Grossglockner, Cortina

Today marks the shift from Austria to Italy.  We started off by making a quick visit to the Hallein salt mines - given that we're near Salzburg, obviously...

I recall going to a salt mine when I was a kid in Austria, but wasn't sure if this was the same one.  It was a pretty neat experience again, what with the slides - although now that I'm taller, they seemed a little shorter - and the underground boat trip, and the ongoing video saga that they played with pretty decent production values.  There wasn't actually a ton of salt that I could see, but very entertaining and informative nonetheless.

Afterwards, we began our long drive up the Grossglockner panoramic road to Italy - pretty much one hairpin turn after another, but what a stunning backdrop as we climbed over 1000m in less than an hour.  Kudos to the drivers.  Tons of motorcycles coursing along the hairpin turns too kinda made me yearn for one myself.

The views at the top when we got to our mountain refuge for lunch were incredible.  There was a small lake nearby, which again evoked thoughts of Lord of the Rings - if you're familiar, you probably know which scene I'm referring to - and the mountains were just stunning.  You could literally turn in any direction and you wouldn't take a bad picture.

But that was just the beginning - we then drove to the actual glacier, which is receding quickly - thanks, global warming - and finally caught our first glimpse of snow up close!  Not that I was expecting much, since it is the summer, but snow definitely changes the landscape dramatically.

Finally, our last stop in Austria was a view of the Helligenblut church - the picture below doesn't really do the backdrop justice.

After that, a quick drive across the border - no border checks - to Italy, and the town of Cortina d'Ampezzo, where they filmed James Bond and Pink Panther in the 1960s.  Looking forward to the Dolomites tomorrow....

Crossing the border to Germany (albeit for 10 mins) underground in the salt mine

View of the mountain refuge where we ate lunch

View from the mountain refuge towards the mountains

Grossglockner glacier

Helligenblut church - stunning 

Day 6 - Tre Cime, Dolomites

Today kicked off the Italy portion of the Eurotrip, and our first hike in the famed Unesco-cited Dolomites mountain range.  Our hike was around the Tre Cime mountains, and the trail was quite crowded, even starting at 8:30 am in the morning.

But my goodness, the views are beautiful.  The hike was essentially a circuit around the Tre Cime mountains, stopping halfway for lunch at a mountain refuge.  The terrain was flat, but rocky, but certainly nothing even a beginner could not handle.  There were a few short ups and downs that may be a bit challenging, but the views and satisfaction you feel from conquering them are worth it.

After climbing / hiking / walking for about 2.5 hours, we got to the mountain refuge, and the familiar smells of pasta we had been craving for wafted through the building.  Needless to say, our meal of carbonara and ravioli was probably the most well-received of the trip so far - sometimes, it's really just the simple things in life.

After lunch, we had the option of retracing our steps downhill to the parking lot, or walking for an extra 45 minutes or so and completing the circuit.  I opted to complete the circuit, and with the mountain of pasta dragging me down, I started to regret my choice initially as the first leg of the circuit after lunch consisted of a 200m descent, followed by a similar ascent.  After plowing through that portion of the circuit however, the rest of the trail was reasonably flat and straightforward, and seriously, everything just looks like Lord of the Rings.  Who needs you, New Zealand?

View of the mountain haze and Dolomites

Famed Tre Cime mountains that we climbed around 

Starting the 200 m descent and ascent

So many cows....

View of the mountain range that we were rewarded with at the end of the hike 

Day 7 - Lagazuoi plateau

The second day of the Dolomites hike was easily the most physically taxing of the whole trip as we visited the Lagazuoi plateau.  To get there we had two options - either take a cable car directly to the top, or climb 700m from 2100 m to 2800 m to get to the mountain refuge at the top.  Naturally, I opted to climb.

Surprisingly, throughout the entire trip, I never really felt the effects of the altitude, and it was also unusually warm during the day even at that altitude - around 20 - 25 degrees.  Never did I think I would be wearing t-shirt and shorts at 2800m.

The hike itself was fantastic - similar terrain to Tre Cime, with our own hairpin turns to navigate to get to the top.  The higher we climbed, the more surprising vistas we were greeted with in all directions, and truly, you could not take a bad picture.  All around we were surrounded by marvelous views of the Dolomites, and it is here that I truly appreciated coming on the trip and visiting an area that I haven't heard of much before.  There may be similar views around the world, but even so, just seeing these magnificent mountains up close is worth it.

At the top, we were again treated to a simple yet deeply satisfying pasta meal at the refuge and even got to sample the local specialty - beetroot ravioli.  Beetroots aren't usually my thing, but when you've climbed 700m, you'll eat just about anything.  Then it was a quick 10 minute walk to the actual top of the plateau where we had a 360 degree of the Dolomite range.  Truly truly stunning.

Following lunch, it was a quick cable car ride down to the bottom - probably could've walked, but going down 700 m isn't as fun for the knees - and then a quick pitstop in the town of Cortina where they had a big band festival that day.  Cortina is pretty posh - in fact they hosted the 1956 Winter Olympics - so there wasn't much to see other than the name brands dotting the main street.  But all in all, a terrific hike and memorable day.

Looking up towards the plateau - yes, we climbed to the top of the mountain 

One of my most favorite vistas on the whole trip on the way to Lagazuoi

View of the Dolomites from the top of Lagazuoi

More views - anyone fancy traversing tha rock face?

Day 8 - Bressanone, Compatsch (Alpes de Siusi)

Today was mainly a travel day, as we departed Cortina and headed for the Siusi Alps - another section of the Dolomites.  First, we stopped in the town of Bressanone for a vineyard walk, although it turned out that there were equally abundant apple orchards on our walk through what seemed like the suburbs of Bressanone.  We arrived at the Novacello Abbey for a wine tasting and spectacular lunch that consisted mainly of gorgonzola cheese, speck, and bread.  That speck....could eat it forever.  Getting hungry just thinking about it.

After that, we took a tour of the abbey which housed some intriguing handwritten books and a beautiful library, and then the rain started.  And boy, did it rain hard.  It looked like we were trapped for a while, so we hid out in the abbey for a good 30 minutes before deciding to brave the storm and make our way to the van.

We then drove onwards to Compatsch, where we were surprised to find that to get to the hotel, we would need to take a cable car.  So into the cable car we went, and climbed up the mountain to Compatsch.  It was easily the longest cable car ride I've been on aside from Ngong Ping 360.  At the top, we were again surprised to find that our hotel was literally next to the cable car station such that the view from my room was of the cable cars.

At the hotel, we could see an expansive view of the Bullaccia plateau, one of the largest in Europe, and where we would be hiking tomorrow.  Meanwhile, the gray clouds continued to hover above us ominously....

View of the abbey from the vineyards

Stairway to Nowhere

View of the Bullaccia plateau with cable car station in the foreground

Ah, that speck....

Day 9 - Bullaccia plateau

On the last day of my Eurotrip, we walked outside the hotel and began our circuit hike of the Bullaccia plateau.  Despite being at nearly 2000m, it was so surprising to see lush green land, in stark contrast to the rocky paths of the Tre Cime.  But hey, still looks like Lord of the Rings.

The path was initially quite uneventful, but after about an hour or so, we got to the lookout point, and it was quite breathtaking.  Luckily for us, clouds had formed below us, and so as we looked down into the valley, we were literally above the cloud cover, and the effect was marvelous.  The circuit continued along the edge of the plateau, and eventually, you're just taking the same picture over and over again, but you can't stop because it's so beautiful.

Lunch again was at a mountain refuge where we had our welcome pasta meal, and we completed the circuit by racing downhill back to the hotel.  Some opted to take the cable car down instead, and somehow, those who walked got to the hotel faster.

All in all, a great, low-key way to end the Eurotrip - I highly recommend a visit to the Dolomites if you have a chance and want to do some simple, yet spectacular hiking around Europe.

View of the plateau 

Looking down into the valley 

Racing the dark clouds back to the hotel

Arrivederci, Italy